Image courtesy of Alan Gibbs Farm
There’s nothing more inviting than a new motorway, and the extension to SH16 north-west from Auckland city sends you skimming smoothly between freshly-planted embankments out towards the country — and an instant dilemma. No sooner have you negotiated the roundabout at the end of the motorway than you’re confronted with a host of temptations, most of them alcoholic.
To the right is the road to the Riverhead Historic Tavern and the Hallertau Brewery; and on all sides for the next 10km or so are the neat vineyards of some of the best winemakers in the country. The solution’s at Soljans Estate, the first comer back in 1927 to what’s now called Kumeu Wine Country: like the tasters here working through the full range of wines, you must conscientiously spit, shameful waste though it seems. Then you can visit Kumeu River, a serious cellar door with no café or gift shop nonsense: it’s all about the wine; or Nobilo, or Matua Valley, or Coopers Creek — they’re all here with their bottles lined up, ready for tasting.
There are other reasons to stop along the road — fresh produce, tree-ripened fruits, real strawberry icecream, honey — but none in Kumeu itself, unless you fancy some timber, a large machine or perhaps a new saddle. A good coffee and home-made cake in a real railway carriage at the Garden Centre is a fine excuse for a break, however, before heading out through open farmland towards Helensville. There’s a sweet little museum here — cottage, schoolhouse, courtroom — and birds sing in the main street; then it’s onwards to Kaukapakapa, a settlement much smaller than its name.
Click here to download a printable PDF itinerary of this roadtrip
After the arched concrete bridge, keep an eye open to the left: in amongst the green hills are some unexpected sights. Alan Gibbs, multimillionaire and big thinker, has a private sculpture park here with oversized artworks by Anish Kapoor, Richard Serra, Ralph Hotere and many others. There’s a huge red funnel, a long swirl of rusted steel wall six metres high, a delicate tracery of metal high on the skyline — and, bizarrely, giraffes grazing in fields with cabbage trees and manuka. The park is open to the public - but only by request in advance.
Image courtesy of Alan Gibbs Farm
The road heads up into the hills with great views behind of the expanse of the Kaipara Harbour before winding down to join SH1 at Wellsford. Don’t stop here: turn right and drive south to Warkworth, then left towards Matakana. It’s well worth the detour. In this classy little town there’s a pretty teashop with cakes on a stand, a Saturday Farmers’ Market full of good things, an excellent café just up the hill at the Morris & James pottery, and a set of public toilets you’ll want to photograph. Make an evening of it and go to the movies at the boutique cinema where you might have a ceiling of paper flowers and tui, a huge chandelier, or perhaps filmy draperies. Spend the night just out of town at Kourawhero Lodge, in a luxury room with sweeping views and a high-tech bathroom, before a dinner of goat fillet and roasted salmon, and sleep to the hooting of moreporks.
In the morning, if you feel like a closer look at some sculptures, drive through Matakana again towards Snells Beach to Brick Bay vineyard where you can follow their sculpture trail around the lake and through the woods. Here is art of all sorts, in all media, surrounded by some of nature’s best. And when you’re finished, there’s more wine to taste in the Glass House with a tempting platter of nibbles to sustain you for the drive back to Auckland.
9 Comments
This article is only a brief run down on what there is to do on Highway 16, call in and see the friendly folk at the Kumeu i-SITE Visitor Centre, Main Rde, Kumeu, and we will give you heaps more great ideas of things to do and see in this region.
ReplySalty Dog is the worse pub in NZ They tell lies and protect the local thugs that drink there Neva will they see me and others that know about this pub It is the worse place for holidays in NZ that Pub
ReplyActually, if you do get the chance make sure you stop in Wellsford, we don't have vineyards or toilets you want to photograph, what we do have is wonderful cafes, a small playground close to town where the kids can run and stretch their legs, McDonalds with an indoor playground if weather is wet, great coffee for the mums and dads (remember if kids are happy then parents are happy). Also a fantastic gift shop Hobbs, that people travel far and wide to come back to. And most importantly we have very friendly people in our town ready to make your stop off a great experience!!!!!!!
ReplyFor a horrible moment I thought they were going to suggest you go to Dargaville. Uggggh.
Replyif you want really good coffee and homemade food try TOP OF THE DOME on highway 1 lovely people lovely food and a great outlook over the forests. Wellsford has great food at PEPPERS and another cafe in Wellsford is the corner cafe (used to be Jaques) really good food at all these venues and cant recommend them enough.
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