With its village square, flowerbeds and wooden colonial architecture, Martinborough is picture-postcard quaint. At the heart of the Wairarapa, its long hot summers and dry autumns produce outstanding Pinot Noir and other wines. It’s a perfect weekend getaway with boutique shops, vibrant cafés and cellar doors.
But if it all becomes too taxing and you’re after some space and solitude, point the car in the direction of Cape Palliser, an isolated, rugged landscape at the southernmost point of the North Island.
It takes about a little over an hour to drive the 72km from Martinborough to Cape Palliser one way, but given that you’ll probably want to do a few walks, you’ll need to set aside about four hours for the return trip. Better still, make a day of it.
Picture yourself in the middle of a big Union Jack and that’s your starting point. When John Martin founded Martinborough in 1879, he not only named it after himself, he laid out the streets in the shape of the Union Jack. One of them, Jellicoe Street, will take you to Lake Ferry Road and on to Cape Palliser, but before you get too settled into the drive, turn to the left about 7km along.
Cruising past a couple of vineyards, you’ll arrive at Murdoch James Estate, where you can enjoy fine food and wine, take in the views from the terrace, or join a Grape to Glass tour. Back on Lake Ferry Road, the drive takes you through a bucolic landscape and the small rural community of Pirinoa with its Maori meeting house.
Photo credit: tuckr56 (filckr)
Keep your eyes peeled for the sign where you turn left for Cape Palliser, leaving the flat road behind you. You’ll soon get your first glimpse of Palliser Bay, the mouth of the North Island fish that was hooked by Maui from his South Island boat in Māori legend.
Check the weather conditions before you set out; as the narrow road becomes quite precarious, eventually turning to gravel. But it is a spectacular drive - rain, hail or shine - as the road clings to the coast and the landscape changes depending on the light.
Make time for a stop at the Putangirua Pinnacles, a striking geological formation that look like something out of Middle Earth and were, indeed, used as a backdrop in one of the Lord of the Rings films. Walks range from one to four hours return. Further on is the sleepy fishing village of Ngāwī where the locals use brightly coloured bulldozers to launch their boats.
Just before you reach Cape Palliser lighthouse, seals can often be seen lounging in the grass. This is one of the island’s largest seal colonies and it is a photographer’s feast as you can get right up close if you are quiet. Do be careful, however, not to get between them and their escape to the sea.
There are 258 steps from the carpark to the lighthouse and you’ll likely feel every one of them. Take consolation in the fact that lighthouse keepers did this every day until the lighthouse was automated in 1986. But it is all worth it when you reach the top, as you are rewarded with magnificent views of towering cliffs and wild seas stretching across Cook Strait to the South Island in the distance.
On the return journey, turn off to the Lake Ferry Pub for fish and chips, whitebait fritters, or crayfish and paua when available. You’ve had a few strenuous walks and a challenging drive, but it’s nothing that a good Martinborough Pinot can’t fix.
_________________________________________________________________Continue your journey with these other nearby roadtrips:
Click here to find Wairarapa's wineries and boutique shopping
Click here to see our gallery on Wairarapa's charms
Click here to discover Wellington
Click here to cruise the Kapiti Coast
16 Comments
Pirinoa Country Store is your last fuel stop before the coast and covers everything you could possibly need as well as old fashioned charm.It is only closed on Xmas Day.The shop was est 1882 and is probably one of the last old country stores in NZ.They cover groceries,tackle bait,fresh veges and fruit,full liquor off licence,petrol, diesel,post office and DVD rental and plenty of local knowledge.
ReplyI remember the days when the lighthouse keeper would be shut in there though the winter due to flooded rivers & Dad would always ring & see what they neede when we were headed down there, of cause there was only 1,keeper by then so they had to be there bacicaly 24/7,
Replyi lived here permanently for 22 years,its realy Magnificent even autum,winter,spring or summer.Yes its long way but we have everything here.except shop
Replyyep that Rosemary also was at the bach past the Lighthouse as a small kid, now live before the lighthouse!
1 ReplyYes we tikki-toured down to the Light house and it was nice to get off the main highway while heading down to Wellington - just to explore and it was well worth the trip.
Reply